Why people still choose real cedar
Cedar is what many Northwest houses were built with, and plenty of owners want to keep that look. The grain is real, the color deepens over time, and nothing else quite copies it. If your home is a Craftsman, a mid-century ranch or a cedar-shingled bungalow, new cedar siding may be the right answer rather than a substitute.
Western red cedar contains natural oils that help it resist decay and insects better than most woods. That is a head start, not a promise. In a place with 150-plus rainy days, wind-driven rain and constant moss, cedar lasts when the details around it are right.
Cedar options
- Bevel (lap) siding. The classic. Smooth or rough-sawn faces, in different widths and exposures.
- Shingles and shakes. Straight-cut, fish-scale and other patterns for gables, accents or whole walls.
- Board and batten, and channel rustic. For cabins, modern farmhouse looks and certain Craftsman styles.
- Grades and finishes. Clear, tight-knot and knotty grades differ in cost, look and how they take stain. Prefinished or field-finished is a choice we can walk through.
If you love the look of cedar but want less upkeep, James Hardie makes cedar-look products too. See James Hardie siding and our Hardie vs. cedar guide.
How cedar goes on right
Wood is more forgiving to cut and repair than fiber cement, and also less forgiving of water. These are the habits that keep cedar alive:
- Tear off and inspect. Old siding comes down to the sheathing. Any rot gets cut out and replaced first. See siding and dry rot repair.
- Weather barrier and flashing. House wrap, flashed windows and doors, kick-out flashing where roofs meet walls. Our rainscreen and house wrap guide explains why a drainage gap behind cedar is worth discussing.
- Prime all sides. Cedar that is primed or sealed on the back and on cut ends soaks up far less water. This is the step most often skipped.
- Clearance. Keep the bottom edge well above grade, decks and roofs so it can dry out between rains.
- Fasteners. Corrosion-resistant nails, placed so the boards can move with the seasons without splitting.
- Finish soon. Cedar left bare in a wet fall will gray, stain and take on moisture. A coat of stain or paint, applied promptly, protects it. We can coordinate that for you.
Cedar and the rest of the wall
New cedar only works if everything around it works too. Windows, doors and roof edges are where water enters a cedar wall, so we look at windows and sliding doors and trim, soffit and fascia while the old siding is off. Replacing a failing window flashing or a rotted fascia board is far cheaper with the wall open than as a repair later, and it keeps the new cedar from taking on water from above or behind.
Upkeep, honestly
Cedar is not a once-and-done siding. Plan on cleaning off moss and mildew, and recoating on a schedule that depends on your exposure. A shaded, north-facing wall behaves very differently from a south wall that bakes in July and soaks in January. If you want a siding you rarely touch, Hardie is probably the better fit, and Dave will tell you so. If you like the idea of caring for real wood, cedar can serve you for decades.
What affects cost
Real cedar prices move with the market, so we do not post figures. What changes your estimate:
- Profile and grade of the cedar
- Wall area, stories and complexity
- Prefinishing or field finishing
- Rot repair under the old siding
- Trim, soffit and fascia, and window changes done at the same time
- Pattern work like shingle courses and fish-scale details
See the cost guide for general industry ranges. For a real number, Dave gives free estimates.
Cedar for older Gresham-area homes
Plenty of homes in Gresham, Troutdale and East County were sided in cedar lap or plywood panels during the 1950s through the 70s. When that siding is tired, replacing in kind keeps the character of the neighborhood. Dave grew up around this work, learning from a dad who sided houses, and he knows how these older walls were framed and where they tend to fail. Read more about Six-Point, or see our Gresham page.
Why Six-Point
Dave Shaffer is a second-generation sider with about 40 years of hands-on experience, Oregon CCB #153635, bonded and insured. He is on every job from start to finish, so the person who plans your cedar walls is the one who nails them up.
Talk to Dave
Call or text Dave: 503-260-7647. Free estimates, plain answers.
Questions homeowners ask
Will real cedar siding last in Oregon?
Cedar is a naturally durable wood and has been used on Northwest houses for generations, but it needs good installation and upkeep. Back-priming, proper clearance, flashing and a maintained finish are what separate cedar that lasts from cedar that rots at the bottom course.
How often does cedar need to be re-stained or painted?
It depends on the exposure and the finish. South and west walls take more sun and rain and wear faster; sheltered walls last longer. Plan on periodic recoating and ask Dave what to expect for your house.
Can you match the cedar siding on my older home?
Often, yes. Many homes from the 1950s through the 70s and Craftsman homes have cedar lap or shingles, and we can talk about matching profile, exposure and width. If a perfect match is not available, there are ways to blend a repair so it does not stand out.
Cedar or Hardie, which should I choose?
Hardie asks for less upkeep. Cedar gives you real wood grain, a look that is hard to copy and an easy-to-repair material. Both do well when installed correctly, and Dave installs both. Our Hardie vs. cedar guide goes deeper.
Do you stain or paint the cedar?
We do not offer painting as a standalone service. We can coordinate with a painter or stainer, and it is best to have the finish go on promptly after the siding is up.