The edges decide how long a house lasts
Siding gets the attention, but water usually gets in at the edges: window trim, corner boards, the fascia along the roofline and the soffit under the eaves. Those parts are cut, nailed and exposed from every side. In Oregon’s wet climate, they are often the first to rot.
Dave replaces trim, soffit and fascia as stand-alone jobs or as part of a full re-side. Done well, it keeps water out of the wall and rain out of the attic, and it gives the house crisp, finished lines.
What each piece does
- Fascia. The board along the roof edge. It supports the end of the roof and usually carries the gutter. It takes direct rain and gutter overflow, so it rots often.
- Soffit. The underside of the roof overhang. Vented soffits let attic air move, which helps keep the roof structure dry. Missing or blocked vents can lead to moisture problems.
- Window and door trim. The casings that frame the openings. They shed water over the flashing and gap where the window meets the wall.
- Corner boards and rake boards. They finish the wall corners and the sloped gable edges.
- Water table and band boards. Horizontal trim that sheds water away from the base of the wall and divides stories.
Signs it is time
- Paint peeling or bubbling on trim, even after repainting
- Soft or crumbling wood when you push with a screwdriver
- Sagging, stained or missing soffit panels
- Birds, wasps, squirrels or rodents getting into the eaves
- Black streaks or moss along the fascia
- Gutters pulling away because the fascia behind them is soft
- Gaps around window trim where daylight or rain gets through
Wet fascia can also mean something else is wrong, such as a roof leak or a gutter problem. We will point you to the right trade if the issue is outside our work.
How Dave does it
- Inspect. Dave checks the extent of the damage from the ground and a ladder, and probes the wood. You get a free estimate.
- Remove the bad material. Rotted trim comes off, along with any wet sheathing or framing behind it.
- Repair what’s underneath. New blocking, sheathing or rafter tails if needed. See siding and dry rot repair.
- Flashing and drip edge details. Water must have a path off the building. Windows get flashing tied into the weather barrier. Roof edges and wall-to-roof joints get the right metal.
- Install new material. Primed and sealed on all sides and ends, with correct clearances, and fastened with corrosion-resistant nails.
- Vents, caulk and finish. Soffit vents sized and placed so the attic breathes, joints caulked where caulk belongs, and painting coordinated with your painter.
Material choices
- Fiber cement trim (HardieTrim). Doesn’t rot or swell, and holds paint well. It matches James Hardie siding when you are re-siding.
- Cedar. Natural durability and a classic look, a good match with cedar siding and older homes.
- Primed wood and other options. Often chosen for budget or match. They need good priming and upkeep.
Dave does not install vinyl siding, but we can go over trim options at your estimate.
Trim and the rest of the exterior
Trim work is easiest when it is planned with the rest of the wall. If you’re replacing windows, the casings come off anyway. If you are re-siding, the corner boards and window trim set the final lines of the job. And if the rot is in the siding below the trim, it makes sense to look at windows and sliding doors and repair together, so you don’t open the same wall twice.
What affects cost
- Linear feet of trim, fascia and soffit
- Height and access: a one-story ranch is simpler than a three-story with steep gables
- Material (fiber cement, cedar or primed wood)
- How much rot has spread to the framing and sheathing
- Whether gutters have to be taken off and re-hung by your gutter installer
- Painting, which we coordinate but do not do as a standalone service
See general ranges in the cost guide. Dave gives a free, exact estimate.
Why Six-Point
Dave Shaffer is a second-generation sider with about 40 years of hands-on experience, and he is personally on every job. Six-Point Siding, Inc. is licensed in Oregon (CCB #153635), bonded and insured. Trim is detail work, and details are where the leaks start. Learn more about us, or see our service areas, from Gresham out to Sandy and Corbett.
Call or text Dave
Call or text Dave: 503-260-7647. Free estimates.
Questions homeowners ask
What is the difference between soffit and fascia?
Fascia is the board along the roof edge, where gutters usually attach. The soffit is the underside of the overhang, between the fascia and the wall. Together they cap off the roof edge and often provide attic ventilation.
Do you replace gutters or roofing?
No. Dave does not do gutters or roofing. When we replace fascia, a gutter installer may need to remove and re-hang the gutters, and we are happy to coordinate with whoever you trust.
What materials can trim and fascia be?
Common choices are primed wood, cedar and fiber cement such as James Hardie's HardieTrim, depending on the look and location. Dave will talk through what suits your house and budget.
Why is my soffit sagging or stained?
Usually water. A roof or gutter leak, a clogged gutter overflowing at the edge, or condensation from poor attic ventilation can soak the soffit. The fix is to find the source and then replace what is damaged.
Can trim be done without replacing the siding?
Yes, in many cases. Window casings, corner boards, soffits and fascia can be replaced on their own. If you are re-siding soon, it is usually smarter to do the trim at the same time so it all gets flashed and sealed together.