Rot is a symptom, not the problem
In Oregon, siding fails from the bottom and from the windows. Water gets in somewhere, stays there, and the wood slowly softens. By the time paint bubbles or a board feels spongy, the damage underneath may be bigger than what you can see.
Dave has spent about 40 years looking behind siding. Good repair is mostly detective work: find where the water came in, fix that, then replace what is damaged. If you only patch the rot, you are back in three years.
Where we usually find it
- Bottom courses. Splash-back from the ground, siding in contact with soil, bark mulch or concrete, and a lack of clearance.
- Window and door corners. Missing or failed flashing, old caulk, and sills that don’t shed water.
- Roof-to-wall joints. No kick-out flashing, so water pours behind the siding at the end of a gutter run.
- Deck ledgers and railings. A deck attached to the house without proper flashing is a classic leak. See decks.
- Trim, fascia and soffits. Wood trim that is cut open, unsealed or tucked up under a leaky roof edge. See trim, soffit and fascia.
- Penetrations. Hose bibs, vents, light fixtures and dryer exhaust that were never sealed.
- Old T1-11. Panels from the 1960s through the 80s that have delaminated or rotted at the bottom edge and along the grooves.
Our guide to the signs of dry rot lists what to look for yourself.
How a repair works
- Look and probe. Dave checks the area, probes the wood and may open up a section to see how far the damage goes. He gives you a free estimate.
- Find the leak. The point of entry matters more than the rot.
- Cut out what is bad. Rotted siding, trim, sheathing and sometimes framing come out. Sound wood stays. The cut goes back to solid material.
- Fix the water path. New flashing, kick-out flashing, a sealed penetration, or correct clearance. Where wall protection is lacking, we add a proper weather barrier. See the rainscreen and house wrap guide.
- Rebuild. New sheathing as needed, house wrap lapped correctly, and matching siding and trim.
- Seal and finish. Caulk where it belongs, primer on raw edges, and paint coordination so the repair gets protected.
Repair or replace?
Sometimes a few boards are all that is wrong. Sometimes a leak has been running for a decade and the wall needs more than a patch. We’d rather tell you honestly. If it makes sense to re-side, Dave can show you why, and you can look at James Hardie or cedar. If it doesn’t, he will fix what is wrong and leave the rest alone.
What to do while you wait
If you suspect rot, you can slow it down. Keep gutters and downspouts clear so they don’t spill onto the wall. Pull bark mulch, soil and plants back from the bottom of the siding. Trim shrubs so air can reach the wall. Don’t pile firewood against it. If a board is clearly soft, a photo sent to Dave helps him judge how urgent it is. Avoid slathering caulk over a soft spot, because that can trap water in the wall and hide the problem.
What affects cost
Repair prices vary because every leak is different. These things move the number:
- How far the rot extends: surface boards, sheathing or framing
- How many locations need work
- Height and access (a second-story gable costs more than a ground-level corner)
- Whether flashing, windows or trim have to be rebuilt
- Matching an older siding profile
- Paint coordination afterward
Check our cost guide for general ranges, and then call for a free estimate based on your house.
Why hire Six-Point for this
Repair is where experience shows. A newer crew may patch what they see. Dave learned from a dad who sided houses and has about 40 years of his own, and he can read a wall. He is on every job himself, which matters most on repair work because the surprises show up when the wall is open and someone has to make the call. Six-Point Siding, Inc. is licensed in Oregon (CCB #153635), bonded and insured. Before you hire anyone, check any contractor’s license before you hire. We work around Gresham, Troutdale and the rest of East County and the Portland metro.
Call before it spreads
Call or text Dave: 503-260-7647. Send a photo if you like. Free estimates.
Questions homeowners ask
How do I know if I have dry rot?
Push a screwdriver into the wood. If it sinks in easily or the wood crumbles, it is rotted. Check the bottom courses, under windows, at corners and where a deck or roof meets the wall. Our dry rot guide has more signs.
Is it a repair or do I need all-new siding?
It depends on how far the damage goes. A few boards or a window corner can often be repaired. If the rot is wide, the sheathing is wet in many places or the siding is failing overall, replacement can make more sense. Dave will tell you which he sees.
Why does the rot keep coming back?
Because the cause was not fixed. Rot is a symptom of a leak: bad window flashing, no kick-out flashing, siding touching the ground or deck, failed caulk. We look for the source, not just the damage.
Can you repair just a section and match it?
Usually, yes. Matching cedar or older lap profiles can take some work, and Hardie can be blended in. Paint color matching is a separate job; we can coordinate painting.
Should I wait until spring?
Water damage grows in the wet months, so earlier is usually cheaper than later. A small repair on a dry day can be handled in any season, and Dave can tell you what is safe to do now and what should wait.
Does this include structural framing?
If rot has reached the sheathing or framing around the siding, we cut it out and replace it as part of the repair. If it goes beyond that, Dave will say so and explain what he sees.