A deck is part of your house, not just an add-on
Decks get a lot of use and a lot of weather. In Oregon, they sit wet from October to June, collect moss and leaf litter, and shed water into whatever is beneath them. Built well, a deck is a favorite spot for years. Built poorly, it rots from the ledger out.
Dave is a sider first, and that shapes how he builds decks. He has spent about 40 years fixing the damage that bad deck connections cause, so he pays attention to the one part most builders treat as an afterthought: where the deck meets the house.
The ledger is where decks fail
Most attached decks hang from a ledger board bolted to the house. If that joint is not flashed properly, water runs behind the siding and into the rim of the house. You may not see it for years, until the wall below the deck is soft.
When we build or repair an attached deck, the ledger connection is flashed into the house wrap and siding so water sheds out and away, not in. If you’ve already got a deck and suspect trouble, look at the siding right above and below the ledger. Soft spots, stains or peeling paint are the warning signs. See siding and dry rot repair and signs of dry rot.
What we do
- New decks. Ground-level and raised decks, with stairs and railings, sized to the way you actually use your yard.
- Deck replacement and rebuilds. Keeping a sound frame and replacing worn decking, or starting over when the structure has had enough.
- Repairs. Replacing rotted boards, railings, stairs and trim.
- Deck-to-house connections. Re-flashing or reattaching ledgers that have leaked.
- Combined with siding. If your wall has to be re-sided, it is smart to deal with the deck connection while the wall is open. See James Hardie siding or cedar siding.
Materials, in plain terms
We’ll talk through the options at your estimate:
- Pressure-treated lumber. The lowest upfront cost. Needs regular cleaning and sealing, and can check and cup with weather.
- Cedar. A nicer look and natural durability, with upkeep to match.
- Composite and PVC-type decking. Higher upfront cost, much less maintenance, and no staining. Quality and warranty vary by product, so ask about the manufacturer’s terms.
For framing, fasteners and hardware, we use materials rated for outdoor and treated-wood use. Moisture and corrosion are the enemies here, so the small stuff matters.
How a project goes
- Walk the site. Dave checks the yard, the wall, the slope and drainage, and talks through how you want to use the space. Free estimate.
- Plan and permits. Layout, size, height and railing details. Many decks need a permit, and we explain what applies. See our permits guide.
- Footings and framing. Solid footings, posts and beams sized for the load, with proper spacing and ventilation below.
- Flash the ledger. The connection to the house is flashed before decking goes on.
- Decking, stairs and rails. Installed with care for drainage gaps and slope away from the house.
- Finish. Cleanup, and any sealing or staining coordinated with a painter or stainer if you want that.
Keeping a deck alive in the wet
A deck lasts longest when it can drain and dry. That means gaps between boards, a slight slope away from the house, and clearance underneath for air. Sweep off leaves and needles, which hold moisture against the wood, and clean moss before it makes the surface slick. Keep planters off the boards or set them on feet. A little attention each fall and spring does more for a deck than any one product, and Dave can tell you what your particular deck needs.
What affects cost
- Size and height of the deck
- Decking and railing materials
- Stairs, landings and built-ins
- Site conditions: slope, access and soil
- Permits and any inspections
- Repair of existing structure or rot in the house wall
- Whether the deck is tied into other exterior work
We don’t post prices. See the cost guide for general exterior ranges, and call Dave for a free estimate on your project.
Why Six-Point
Six-Point Siding, Inc. is Dave Shaffer and a small family crew. Dave is a second-generation sider with about 40 years of experience, Oregon CCB #153635, bonded and insured, and he is on every job himself. He will not build a deck that leaks into your wall. Before you hire anyone, check their CCB license. Learn about Six-Point, or see our work areas, including Gresham, Sandy and Boring.
Call or text Dave
Call or text Dave: 503-260-7647. Free estimates.
Questions homeowners ask
Do I need a permit to build a deck?
Often, yes, especially for decks attached to the house or raised off the ground, though rules vary by city and county. Dave can explain what applies at your address, and our permits guide has the basics.
What decking materials do you work with?
We will talk through options like pressure-treated lumber, cedar and composite decking, and what each means for cost, upkeep and look. The best choice depends on your budget and how much maintenance you want.
Can you repair my existing deck instead of replacing it?
Sometimes. Rotted boards and railings can be replaced. If the posts, beams or ledger are failing, repair may not be enough. Dave will look and tell you straight.
Why does the deck connection matter for my siding?
A deck attached to the house is one of the most common places water gets into a wall. If the ledger board isn't flashed correctly, water runs behind the siding and rots the framing. That is why a sider building decks makes sense.
Do you stain or seal the deck?
We don't offer painting or staining as a standalone service, but we can coordinate with someone you trust. Wood decks do need regular sealing in our climate.